East African Safari

We were up at 6.00am for a game drive leaving in half and hour. It was very cold at that hour of the morning so we sore warm clothes until such time the sun became warm. We headed for the Musabi Plain following the Grumeti River to the west of Serengeti. The sun was rising as we left.
Driving along near a sparsely wooded area John spotted a Serval Cat, it was beautiful with its geometric marking. It was just waking along, in no hurry, ambled across the road in front of us and disappeared into the bush. One of the best bits was coming across a colony of baboons. They have very serious concentrated expressions on their faces, the adults were grooming each other and the young created a game that was great fun. From a small hummock they were hurling themselves at each other and rolling off and like children repeated the whole exercise again. For the rest we saw zebra, wildebeest, hartebeest, impala and Thompson gazelle, some of them with young and one Topi calf had an obviously broken leg. Edward assured us it would be OK but I doubted this. Always it is the survival of the fittest here in the wild.

We then stopped for a while and we were able to get out of the vehicle and stretch our legs, once again a small picnic had been brought. A drink and an apple was all we needed. I was at a slight disadvantage being a lone female as dying for a pee but not a bush in sight just a flat open plain, therefore gritted my teeth and turned down the offer of a drink. We were then shown a camping area then retraced our steps and returned to camp. On the branch of a tree in front of our tent there were a few vervet monkeys.

Afternoon 4.00pm

This afternoon the plan was to drive to the north but Edward could see it was raining to the north, instead we returned to Seonea and not far down the road we encountered a large pride of lion. Females of different ages with six, six month old cubs, with the male they were all lying in the grass resting it proved to be an afternoon of families. By the river, a rare sight, two hippos were out on the bank grazing leaving in the water their calf. It was quite comical to watch the calf become more and more frustrated trying to get out wanting to join its parents, thrashing around and crying out. There was an older young hippo in the water to keep it company. Finally the parents gave in and returned to their offspring. Then we found a family of cheetah the cubs having a lesson in hunting. Mum sat and watched while he young son decided to hunt a herd of Zebra. Normally cheetahs would not tackle zebra, the herd in disbelief galloped off and when the young male tired after the chase returned to mum, all the zebra followed him back and stood looking at him. The family then crossed in front of the vehicle and strolled across the plain. The next family was of Egyptian Geese, mother, father and goslings going to the river to drink. It was too shallow to swim. We met up with a couple of other drivers who said they were both carrying honeymooners. We have met several couples on this trip. Back at camp instead of monkeys there were Kanga, Guinea fowl, roosting in the tree. Tonight at dinner Edward said, rubbing his hands together that the staff were looking forward to going back to the Seronea Lodge with big tips!!

During the night John heard a hyena howling and they were crashing against the side of the tent even though we had a lantern that was lit all night in front of the tent the washbasins were missing, presumably dragged off by hyena however they were retrieved later. At breakfast I asked Pius, the waiter to imitate the howl of a hyena, then I realised that I had heard it too.

After breakfast we set off with Edward on the whole day safari. Firstly we saw a Colubus monkey and a newly dug Aardvark den, next a group of lions that were moving towards a group of zebra and appeared to be looking for a kill, however nothing came of it, the zebra would live another day. Briefly we glimpsed a leopard walking into some grass then it lay down and all that was visible was the tips of its ears. We then visited the tree where we saw the leopard yesterday evening, it was still there. As the drivers have to stay on the tracks it is very difficult to get close enough to get a photograph of leopards in trees as they don’t show up in the final picture. Last night John made a list of the animals that he would like to see to photograph today. Impala, Thompson Gazelle, Baboon, Kanga, Dieker, Dik Dik, Warthog and leopard, we did see all these animals and thus John was able to take his photographs including Water Buck, not on the list. We drove down to the river to watch, a herd of Zebra drink near them was a crocodile and down river a bit were three hippos and two crocodiles. Driving along a track we spied a large amount of vultures so Edward went to investigate, there under a tree was a cheetah with a kill, a Thompson gazelle. The cheetah had eaten most of the flesh, only the head and entrails were left, it had a stomach like a football. The vultures stood patiently in groups, there were crested eagle, Rupells, white headed hooded Nubian, and Griffen vultures. On the horizon we spotted a loan spotted hyena. Gradually with some speed it went straight towards the cheetah, sized up the situation, circling it and the vultures. The cheetah went for the vultures and the hyena seized the opportunity to chase off the cheetah, grabbed the kill and relocated it at the same time another spotted hyena was coming at speed, it arrived, grabbed part of the Tommy and whilst all this was going on the vultures moved in but all they got was the blood, the cheetah ambled off to find a place to lie down to sleep off the meal. Hyenas have incredible teeth and jaws, the first one was crunching the ribs and ate the head before the second one arrived, we observed the whole cycle of who gets what in the event of a kill. In this way there is no waste and it is rare to see any bones around, the only exception being buffalo horns.

Then it was time for lunch time and we headed off towards the picnic area near the Seronea lodge airstrip. Edward produced picnic boxes brought from the camp, excellent and far too much. There was a building which serves as a customs house and collector of money for parking, permits for companies filming etc. There was a trail round the building leading up to a kopje, where we found a colony of hyrax which smelled very strongly of urine. There were illustrations and information boards all the way around and gave the route followed by the annual wildebeest migration always going in circular motion for pasture to graze, from south to north, from east to west. Then it rained heavily and we were soaked. The Kopjes provide homes for many species of animal including cheetah.

After lunch we set off again and kept coming across groups of male impala. It seems the boys stay together, usually not far from a herd of female impala with one male. Serving a group of females is arduous work and they lose weight and strength and once the loan males have built up their strength they can go and challenges for a herd of females. Late evening we saw a herd of elephant arrive at the river bank to drink they were all sizes the bull being the last to wade in, he proved to be quite destructive. Overhead branches of a tree were hanging over the river the bull reached up with his trunk, tore off a branch and munched it up. Then it was time to return to camp and walking along together were two lionesses, mother and daughter, mum looked quite old, as it was raining they sat down together each taking turns to lick the other, Mum went into hunting mode but we could see nothing in sight. On crossing back over the river we saw a family of baboons who crossed over the bridge and turned right in a purposeful manner one a mother with the baby slung underneath it

On return to camp and after a shower Pius had built a fire and brought out some chairs to sit and have a drink before dinner. We began to talk and found that Pius came from Kilimanjaro and had once worked on a Tanzanite mine as had his father before him. After a time he decided he didn’t like the work too much instead became a porter to climbers, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro. Now he works at the Seonea Lodge and is married, his wife expecting their first child at any minute. He was waiting for the phone call. He also told us that Africans in this area must be tested for HIV before they can get married. Sounds like a good system to me.

After leaving the lodge we drove around the top of the gorge and past a Masai village. The road was rough and dusty and after some time we reached the Oldavai Gorge where Mary Leakey discovered “Footprints of Man” that were 3.5 million years old. We had a short lecture and visited the museum with prehistoric skulls hung on the walls and other artefacts and the history of the people involved. Growing in the area is the Oldavai plant, it appears to be similar to a sisal plant that elephant and baboon can suck out the moisture from during the dry season. 15 minutes after leaving, standing on the roadside, were three young Masai boys dressed in black because they had been circumcised and were now warriors. After some time we arrived at the Naabi Gate the entrance into the Serengeti National Park. Edward had to go into the office there for permits etc., so we were left to amuse ourselves for half and hour or so. We climbed to the top of the Naabi Hill that overlooked the plain which was stunning. We were entertained by an Amaba Lizard the male was electric blue and shocking pink, the female a boring brown colour. Being opportunists were Superb Starlings strutting round hoping for crumbs of food. Whilst Edward was in the office he discovered a message from his company, telling him that there was a problem with the Mobile Camp. The site they were going to use had grass that was too long and a Ranger asked them to relocate therefore they were unable to provide lunch and we were to be taken to the Seronea Lodge in the same area. This lodge was also built by the Aga Khan, the roof is very attractive made from coconut palm leaves and the pattern of the ceiling very striking. We sat out on the verandah and had a small lunch. There is a problem that the food is too lavish and one is expected to eat a three course meal twice daily which is almost impossible!!!!!!!

After Edward reappeared from having had lunch we started out for the camp, en passant we viewed a leopard descending a leafless tree leaving it’s kill up in the branches, it then lay down in the shade of a Wait a Bit tree. Arriving at the camp it still wasn’t ready so off we went on a game drive. Returning to the leopard it was still lying down in the grass which gives very good camouflage. We passed lots zebra, impapla, topi, buffalo and gazelles and on one side of the track was buffalo kill of two male lions that were sleeping on the other side after having gorged themselves, taking the opportunity whilst the lions slept a vulture began to peck at the carcass. After some time the lions raised themselves off the ground and wandered over to chase the vulture away, looked with what seemed to be without enthusiasm and after a while settle down to eat. We then passed a Mama giraffe walking along with her baby bringing up the rear way behind. It was only a week or so old. We had another sighting of a leopard that had been down form the tree was now up in the Sausage Tree. It is quite comical to see because with their body lying along the branch they dangle legs and tail each side. Whilst we have been driving around to day a few lions have been seen with kills and at one site another driver who was a colleague of Edward asked him, “Why are these lions going around killing animals”? To which Edward replied, “Because that is the way lions survive”. We three chuckled about that one for ages afterwards. It then began to rain heavily and we headed for camp. When we reached our track was very wet and the black cotton soil caused the vehicle to slip and slide all over the place.

On arrival at the camp we were greeted by all four members of staff. Our canvas wash basins were filled with warm water and we were offered orange or mango juice. We were left whilst two of the staff arranged warm water for a shower. The tent has all mod cons, a toilet seat over and meter deep long drop, a sink with a pitcher of water and a shower cubicle. We were told the shower was ready and once inside I found a bar with two handles to release or turn off the water. Unfortunately, not being used to this type of arrangement I didn’t soap and rinse and left the water running. There was not enough water for John and they had to repeat the process. I bet they were not very happy with me.

Dinner was at 7.30pm and in the dining tent there was a table with a cloth and napkins as you would find in a hotel. The bar table held an array of wines and spirits. I think we had a glass of wine with dinner and said we didn’t drink spirits so they were removed. Edward dined with us, the food was excellent and then it was time for bed, and as we walked to our tent the stars were appearing.