East African Safari

We were up at 6.00am for a game drive leaving in half and hour. It was very cold at that hour of the morning so we sore warm clothes until such time the sun became warm. We headed for the Musabi Plain following the Grumeti River to the west of Serengeti. The sun was rising as we left.
Driving along near a sparsely wooded area John spotted a Serval Cat, it was beautiful with its geometric marking. It was just waking along, in no hurry, ambled across the road in front of us and disappeared into the bush. One of the best bits was coming across a colony of baboons. They have very serious concentrated expressions on their faces, the adults were grooming each other and the young created a game that was great fun. From a small hummock they were hurling themselves at each other and rolling off and like children repeated the whole exercise again. For the rest we saw zebra, wildebeest, hartebeest, impala and Thompson gazelle, some of them with young and one Topi calf had an obviously broken leg. Edward assured us it would be OK but I doubted this. Always it is the survival of the fittest here in the wild.

We then stopped for a while and we were able to get out of the vehicle and stretch our legs, once again a small picnic had been brought. A drink and an apple was all we needed. I was at a slight disadvantage being a lone female as dying for a pee but not a bush in sight just a flat open plain, therefore gritted my teeth and turned down the offer of a drink. We were then shown a camping area then retraced our steps and returned to camp. On the branch of a tree in front of our tent there were a few vervet monkeys.

Afternoon 4.00pm

This afternoon the plan was to drive to the north but Edward could see it was raining to the north, instead we returned to Seonea and not far down the road we encountered a large pride of lion. Females of different ages with six, six month old cubs, with the male they were all lying in the grass resting it proved to be an afternoon of families. By the river, a rare sight, two hippos were out on the bank grazing leaving in the water their calf. It was quite comical to watch the calf become more and more frustrated trying to get out wanting to join its parents, thrashing around and crying out. There was an older young hippo in the water to keep it company. Finally the parents gave in and returned to their offspring. Then we found a family of cheetah the cubs having a lesson in hunting. Mum sat and watched while he young son decided to hunt a herd of Zebra. Normally cheetahs would not tackle zebra, the herd in disbelief galloped off and when the young male tired after the chase returned to mum, all the zebra followed him back and stood looking at him. The family then crossed in front of the vehicle and strolled across the plain. The next family was of Egyptian Geese, mother, father and goslings going to the river to drink. It was too shallow to swim. We met up with a couple of other drivers who said they were both carrying honeymooners. We have met several couples on this trip. Back at camp instead of monkeys there were Kanga, Guinea fowl, roosting in the tree. Tonight at dinner Edward said, rubbing his hands together that the staff were looking forward to going back to the Seronea Lodge with big tips!!

During the night John heard a hyena howling and they were crashing against the side of the tent even though we had a lantern that was lit all night in front of the tent the washbasins were missing, presumably dragged off by hyena however they were retrieved later. At breakfast I asked Pius, the waiter to imitate the howl of a hyena, then I realised that I had heard it too.

After breakfast we set off with Edward on the whole day safari. Firstly we saw a Colubus monkey and a newly dug Aardvark den, next a group of lions that were moving towards a group of zebra and appeared to be looking for a kill, however nothing came of it, the zebra would live another day. Briefly we glimpsed a leopard walking into some grass then it lay down and all that was visible was the tips of its ears. We then visited the tree where we saw the leopard yesterday evening, it was still there. As the drivers have to stay on the tracks it is very difficult to get close enough to get a photograph of leopards in trees as they don’t show up in the final picture. Last night John made a list of the animals that he would like to see to photograph today. Impala, Thompson Gazelle, Baboon, Kanga, Dieker, Dik Dik, Warthog and leopard, we did see all these animals and thus John was able to take his photographs including Water Buck, not on the list. We drove down to the river to watch, a herd of Zebra drink near them was a crocodile and down river a bit were three hippos and two crocodiles. Driving along a track we spied a large amount of vultures so Edward went to investigate, there under a tree was a cheetah with a kill, a Thompson gazelle. The cheetah had eaten most of the flesh, only the head and entrails were left, it had a stomach like a football. The vultures stood patiently in groups, there were crested eagle, Rupells, white headed hooded Nubian, and Griffen vultures. On the horizon we spotted a loan spotted hyena. Gradually with some speed it went straight towards the cheetah, sized up the situation, circling it and the vultures. The cheetah went for the vultures and the hyena seized the opportunity to chase off the cheetah, grabbed the kill and relocated it at the same time another spotted hyena was coming at speed, it arrived, grabbed part of the Tommy and whilst all this was going on the vultures moved in but all they got was the blood, the cheetah ambled off to find a place to lie down to sleep off the meal. Hyenas have incredible teeth and jaws, the first one was crunching the ribs and ate the head before the second one arrived, we observed the whole cycle of who gets what in the event of a kill. In this way there is no waste and it is rare to see any bones around, the only exception being buffalo horns.

Then it was time for lunch time and we headed off towards the picnic area near the Seronea lodge airstrip. Edward produced picnic boxes brought from the camp, excellent and far too much. There was a building which serves as a customs house and collector of money for parking, permits for companies filming etc. There was a trail round the building leading up to a kopje, where we found a colony of hyrax which smelled very strongly of urine. There were illustrations and information boards all the way around and gave the route followed by the annual wildebeest migration always going in circular motion for pasture to graze, from south to north, from east to west. Then it rained heavily and we were soaked. The Kopjes provide homes for many species of animal including cheetah.

After lunch we set off again and kept coming across groups of male impala. It seems the boys stay together, usually not far from a herd of female impala with one male. Serving a group of females is arduous work and they lose weight and strength and once the loan males have built up their strength they can go and challenges for a herd of females. Late evening we saw a herd of elephant arrive at the river bank to drink they were all sizes the bull being the last to wade in, he proved to be quite destructive. Overhead branches of a tree were hanging over the river the bull reached up with his trunk, tore off a branch and munched it up. Then it was time to return to camp and walking along together were two lionesses, mother and daughter, mum looked quite old, as it was raining they sat down together each taking turns to lick the other, Mum went into hunting mode but we could see nothing in sight. On crossing back over the river we saw a family of baboons who crossed over the bridge and turned right in a purposeful manner one a mother with the baby slung underneath it

On return to camp and after a shower Pius had built a fire and brought out some chairs to sit and have a drink before dinner. We began to talk and found that Pius came from Kilimanjaro and had once worked on a Tanzanite mine as had his father before him. After a time he decided he didn’t like the work too much instead became a porter to climbers, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro. Now he works at the Seonea Lodge and is married, his wife expecting their first child at any minute. He was waiting for the phone call. He also told us that Africans in this area must be tested for HIV before they can get married. Sounds like a good system to me.

After leaving the lodge we drove around the top of the gorge and past a Masai village. The road was rough and dusty and after some time we reached the Oldavai Gorge where Mary Leakey discovered “Footprints of Man” that were 3.5 million years old. We had a short lecture and visited the museum with prehistoric skulls hung on the walls and other artefacts and the history of the people involved. Growing in the area is the Oldavai plant, it appears to be similar to a sisal plant that elephant and baboon can suck out the moisture from during the dry season. 15 minutes after leaving, standing on the roadside, were three young Masai boys dressed in black because they had been circumcised and were now warriors. After some time we arrived at the Naabi Gate the entrance into the Serengeti National Park. Edward had to go into the office there for permits etc., so we were left to amuse ourselves for half and hour or so. We climbed to the top of the Naabi Hill that overlooked the plain which was stunning. We were entertained by an Amaba Lizard the male was electric blue and shocking pink, the female a boring brown colour. Being opportunists were Superb Starlings strutting round hoping for crumbs of food. Whilst Edward was in the office he discovered a message from his company, telling him that there was a problem with the Mobile Camp. The site they were going to use had grass that was too long and a Ranger asked them to relocate therefore they were unable to provide lunch and we were to be taken to the Seronea Lodge in the same area. This lodge was also built by the Aga Khan, the roof is very attractive made from coconut palm leaves and the pattern of the ceiling very striking. We sat out on the verandah and had a small lunch. There is a problem that the food is too lavish and one is expected to eat a three course meal twice daily which is almost impossible!!!!!!!

After Edward reappeared from having had lunch we started out for the camp, en passant we viewed a leopard descending a leafless tree leaving it’s kill up in the branches, it then lay down in the shade of a Wait a Bit tree. Arriving at the camp it still wasn’t ready so off we went on a game drive. Returning to the leopard it was still lying down in the grass which gives very good camouflage. We passed lots zebra, impapla, topi, buffalo and gazelles and on one side of the track was buffalo kill of two male lions that were sleeping on the other side after having gorged themselves, taking the opportunity whilst the lions slept a vulture began to peck at the carcass. After some time the lions raised themselves off the ground and wandered over to chase the vulture away, looked with what seemed to be without enthusiasm and after a while settle down to eat. We then passed a Mama giraffe walking along with her baby bringing up the rear way behind. It was only a week or so old. We had another sighting of a leopard that had been down form the tree was now up in the Sausage Tree. It is quite comical to see because with their body lying along the branch they dangle legs and tail each side. Whilst we have been driving around to day a few lions have been seen with kills and at one site another driver who was a colleague of Edward asked him, “Why are these lions going around killing animals”? To which Edward replied, “Because that is the way lions survive”. We three chuckled about that one for ages afterwards. It then began to rain heavily and we headed for camp. When we reached our track was very wet and the black cotton soil caused the vehicle to slip and slide all over the place.

On arrival at the camp we were greeted by all four members of staff. Our canvas wash basins were filled with warm water and we were offered orange or mango juice. We were left whilst two of the staff arranged warm water for a shower. The tent has all mod cons, a toilet seat over and meter deep long drop, a sink with a pitcher of water and a shower cubicle. We were told the shower was ready and once inside I found a bar with two handles to release or turn off the water. Unfortunately, not being used to this type of arrangement I didn’t soap and rinse and left the water running. There was not enough water for John and they had to repeat the process. I bet they were not very happy with me.

Dinner was at 7.30pm and in the dining tent there was a table with a cloth and napkins as you would find in a hotel. The bar table held an array of wines and spirits. I think we had a glass of wine with dinner and said we didn’t drink spirits so they were removed. Edward dined with us, the food was excellent and then it was time for bed, and as we walked to our tent the stars were appearing.

At 5.25am I was awoken by the telephone ringing. It was an alarm call which we had not ordered, being polite I said, “Thank you” the reply was “You are welcome”. I lay there worrying whether we should get up or not, reason prevailed and I stayed where I was because Edward said yesterday evening “I will see you in Reception at 8.00am”. After breakfast we went to tell them about the call and after consulting the list decided it was No. 46, which was not written distinctly, should have had the call.

After arranging for some washing to be done we met Edward at the appointed hour and we drove down into the Crater where we spent the next nine hours. On the way down we spotted a Masai with a herd of cattle and goats, it was a precipitous walk for man and beast. It seems that once upon a time the Masai used to live down in the crater until the Government moved them out for conservation purposes and now they are only allowed to take their animals down to take water from the lakes once a day. The first thing we saw was a male lion with a kill, further along an enormous herd of Buffalo and later when we returned to the kill the vultures were there with hyenas waiting for the pickings. Today we have seen Kongoni or Hartebeest for the first time, the other animals jackals, zebra, wildebeest, elephant, ostriches, hippos in the pool on their sides because the water is spring fed and not so deep. We were looking forward to seeing Pink Flamingos in the Soda Lakes but there were very few, we did see some in flight but it was not the same spectacle as we would have seen in Kenya. The most impressive thing was the hundreds of Zebra and Wildebeest gathered on the bank of the Mumbe River. The animals would wade for a drink, something would frighten them they would all rapidly climb out repeating the exercise with frequency. Before we went off for to eat picnic lunch by a lake we came across a gathering of safari vehicles with a Ranger. We learned that a rhino with a four day old baby was lying down in the grass and it should be getting up soon as it was around the time to feed the baby. We waited and waited but it wasn’t going to oblige so we left. As with all the picnic lunches provided by the lodges it was more than adequate and enough to feed two people. Running around on the bank were Guinea Fowl practised at eliciting food from the tourists. We then returned to the place where the mother and baby were but they had moved on.

We came across an extraordinary sight, where the male ostrich, his neck was pink indicating he was in season doing his best to gain the attention of the female in order to mate. With outstretched wings and head bowed he was going a mating dance, after some time the female began the same behaviour and it was obvious it was going to take some time so we abandoned the courtship. Earlier in the day we had seen a group of five ostriches, two male and three female one of whom was showing, unluckily for her the males were not interested. Edward then glimpsed through binoculars a lioness with two cubs but not visible to the naked eye. John expressed an interest in seeing some black rhino, we drove around for ages without sighting one and then at 6.00pm Edward announced “That’s it, the end of the safari”. We started the return journey passing a large rock mound which served as a den for a hyena family with two cubs peeping out. The journey up the track out of the crater seemed a lot steeper than when we ascended this morning.

On arrival back at the Lodge we went for a short walk up the drive as we had seen a plaque on the way in from the Land Cruiser. We learned from it that the Aga Khan had built the lodge and he had opened it two years before. It was built sympathetically to blend in with the terrain, unlike the other lodges that could be seen from the crater floor, it was literally covered with bit grey pebbles. John took a photograph of the plaque and a Masai asked him if he would like to take a photograph of him but as we already had one we declined his offer. It was probably not appreciated as everyone is looking for a dollar,

Before dinner we remembered we had put out laundry to be done whilst we were out for the day and needed clean clothes so we phoned internally and it was delivered. Whilst having a drink before dinner Edward came and sat with us, we asked him would he like a drink, he asked for a Coca Cola. We have noticed most Africans prefer not to drink alcohol, but in conversation we got the impression he used to drink once. We were informed that we would be leaving at 8.00am the following morning for the Mobile Camp.

Wake up call at 5.30am with a tray of tea. We then went out to the front of the lodge and met Richard and a Swiss couple and left for our last game drive at 6.30am. We visited the area where the cheetah and three small cubs were two days ago but she had moved as the cubs are now strong enough to move around. Great excitement as we came across a pride of lions with two fully grown males, one dominant, they are brothers and brothers do not fight one another, two lionesses with four cubs whose manes were just beginning to grow. We then came across a family of jackals, parents and three young who feed from their parents who regurgitate the food. In amongst the trees were two lots of giraffe and on the grassland two herds of impala, Grant gazelles and then it was time to return for breakfast, pack, go to reception to pay and it was time to leave.

We enjoyed the short experience of staying in the Mara Club Lodge where once again it was comfortable the staff attentive and always smiling. The food was incredible. For every meal apart from breakfast we were served soup at the table and then we chose from the buffet which seemed to groan with food and always delicious. At breakfast if one wanted eggs they were cooked for you as and when you were ready. It was all luxurious and the tents set in beautifully kept gardens and of course the hippos.

We were taken back to the airstrip, the plane landed and we were the only passengers to board.
The Air Hostess gave us our tickets for our onward journey to Manyara. The plane a DASH 7, 4 engine, took off, landed on three more airstrips for other lodges and then onto Wilson Airport where we were greeted with the question, “Are you the party going to Kilimanjaro”? We were rushed through immigration and customs and then loaded onto a small plane, Air Kenya with 24 seats when we arrived at Kilimanjaro we were met by a representative from Elite Travel with the itinerary for the Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti. We were taken into the airport building where we had to pay $50 each for International Airport tax and $5 each for local airport tax. We then boarded a 19 seat Regional Airservice plane, the same type we had flown in from Zanzibar to Tanga. We dropped into Arusha Airport where a few passengers alighted then took off and arrived at Manyara Airport three quarters of an hour later.

Edward our driver/guide met us with his reasonably new land cruiser, he will be our guide for the rest of the safari. The road to begin with was brand new and once again the money came from the Japanese Government, unfortunately the road deteriorated after 5 kms and the time to reach the Ngorongoro Crater took two hours after 70 kms. We had to wait for a while for Edward to do whatever was necessary at the entrance to the Reserve. We went into a building selling cards and maps, there were all sorts of people around with vehicles in various states of repair also waiting to arrange the paper work to pass through.

On the way Edward had told us the story of the Mbulu people. In the 18th Century a tribe called Iraquwe from North Africa travelled down to Kenya to settle. This however was not possible because the land already belonged to the indigenous tribes so they kept walking into Tanganiyka, Tanzania today, where they had the same problem as the land belonged to the Masai people. A compromise was reached if they went over the mountain of Ngorongoro they could settle there. They are the grain growers in Tanzania and are the only people to grow grain in Tanzania, wheat grown for bread and barley for beer. In the same area there is a small tribe of Bushmen, they number 99 in all and it is possible to arrange a visit. It is believed the Mbulu originate from or near Ethiopia because some of their words are similar.

On the way to the lodge as we passed along the top of the Crater, Edward stopped at the Memorial and burial place of Bernard Grzimek . This man had spent years of his life working for the Serengeti and was responsible for it becoming a Reserve making it safer for the animals. He was also responsible for the film, “Serengeti Shall not Die”. He and his son, Michael, worked together on the film and sadly Michael when flying his plane over the Crater had an accident and died.
Eventually we arrived at the Serene Lodge overlooking the Crater. We were greeted at Reception with Mango Juice and then checked in. We were shown to our Room 41, immediately we went and slaked our thirst with a beer at the bar. We then went back and unpacked, showered and went to dinner. The food once again was excellent but this time we ordered from a menu and brought to the table by a waiter. We noticed the Africans had some extraordinary names from the name badges. On returning to our room we discovered we had central heating which was very necessary because as night approaches it becomes very cold.

We had awake up call and a tray of tea at 6.00am. We dressed and arrived for the game drive half an hour later however there was no sign of a driver. We met member of staff arrived and asked us to bear with him for five minutes. As I was interested I asked her if they lived with their families in the staff Quarters? “No” she replied it would not be viable. The girls work for a month and are then bussed up country for a one week holiday, the men work two months straight and have two weeks leave. As we were chatting we mentioned that we were interested in the Wildebeest annual migration, she said it was an all day safari starting at 8.00am. Thus it was arranged, a picnic lunch organised and we went to have a breakfast of bacon and eggs.

We set off with Richard, our driver/guide and found the cheetah from yesterday with the month old cubs and we passed 12 giraffe feeding from the tops of trees. We were in the Masai Mara and saw a few villages and herds of cattle, goats and sheep, minding them were the men sitting under trees wearing their traditional blankets worn across one shoulder. Richard told us the women walk miles everyday to collect the water. We drove for approximately three hours passing zebra, topi, Thompsons gazelle and the odd wildebeest. We then crossed into the Mara Game Reserve and found buffalo. They have huge broad horns, they look mean and are very dangerous. Several times we sighted elephant in small family groups, jackals, a hyena with two cubs, a cheetah with cubs, eight lion cubs, four months old, quite grown up, lying in long grass near fallen tree trunks. Then we turned towards the Mara River near Governors Camp, crossing the track were three baboons, one male and two females. The spread out in front of us were thousands of wildebeest ready to cross the river.

In the river were several bloated bodies of casualties that hadn’t made the crossing and resting, replete, on the banks were a large number of crocodiles and standing on the river bank were a large number of vultures waiting, like undertakers at a disaster site, to clean up the bodies. We sat in the vehicle for a very long time waiting for one animal brave enough to lead off and cross the river. It seems no one had the appetite to cross that day then one by one they all dispersed into groups and began to graze. Richard then took us to a pleasant spot overlooking the river and whilst we were eating our picnic we watched the hippos in the middle of the river, a crocodile with its mouth wide open releasing heat from its body another croc eating the carcass of a wildebeest. Another crocodile selected his meal, flung it effortlessly from side to side because crocodiles do not have tongues hence this behaviour.

After lunch we headed back to the lodge and encountered a male lion sleeping under a Proton Tree to keep the flies off him. In Zanzibar we had been told the leaves of the tree are used in insect repellents. We visited a Masai Village we had passed earlier on the outward journey. All the houses are built around a central compound and surrounding the village is a thorn fence forming a corral. At night the cattle and goats are brought into the compound with all exits closed to protect the animals from wild animals, specifically lions. There were a few dogs which we were told were their friends because they alert the inhabitants of danger.

We were greeted by a young Masai Warrior named Kennedy. His father had had him educated but, Kennedy wanted to live the village life of his forebears, he was the village teacher. We were asked for 800Ksh entry. The women were standing in a line across the compound singing us welcome. Around the edge on the ground were crafts spread out for sale. Having paid an entry fee all the money we had left could only by a bead bracelet. Embarrassing!! Kennedy then explained the diet of the Masai which consists of meat and blood mixed with sour milk, they do not eat vegetables because we don’t know how to grow vegetables and then he went on to say that the women walk 10-15 kms a day to collect water and wood, the women build the houses, made from wood and mud, because the men don’t know how to. Then Kennedy showed us his house, it was very small, as you walk in through the door on the right is a pen to keep the calves in. To the left a small area for a fire and to the right and left of there are two sleeping places on a raised piece of the ground covered with cow hide, on one side the wife and the girls and on the other the husband and the boys. There were ventilation holes in the sleeping quarters and the area where the fire was.

The men take the animals out to graze every day and don’t seem to do much else. As the Masai are polygamous, the men can take seven wives.

We expressed an interest in seeing Rhino to Richard so after our visit to the Masai Village we were taken to a Park Ranger’s house to see three white rhinos. The black rhinoceros had died out in the Mara and a pair of white rhinos was imported from South Africa. The pair had two calves sadly however the original female died after ingesting a plastic bag!!!! The animals were not at all aggressive and just walked around munching grass.

Finally, back at the lodge we met the girl we had spoken to this morning having tea in the lounge with friends. She asked us about our day and after giving her a brief résumé we went off to have a coffee in the tent, a shower to remove the dust and dress for dinner. Back at the lodge there was a lecture being given by the Resident Naturalist on the animals in the Mara. After the lecture I asked him how the Masai managed to conceive children because of their sleeping arrangements. “They do” he replied because when they want to be alone the warrior sticks his spear in the ground outside the door. We then had dinner and went to bed early.

We were on the move again after breakfast and Joe drove us to Wilson Airport for the flight to the Mara Club in the Masai Mara, where we expected to find a representative from Pullman Agency at the airport to collect the itinerary and vouchers for our Safari in The Serengeti afterwards. As no one in the office knew anything about it John went of phone the Nairobi Office, he was told that a driver was in transit and would be there within minutes. Time went on and there was no sign of him. Eventually he arrived with all our papers the poor man had a puncture en route!!! John then decided to go upstairs to the Air Kenya Office to check the Malindi-Lamu flights were in order. He took forever, I saw people being taken to immigration and security I got into a frenzy imagining that if John did not reappear we would not be going anywhere today. No need to worry for the groups were colour coded, blue, yellow, green and each group were going to different destinations.

After going through immigration and security checks we boarded a 14 seater plane as we were sitting at the back and I against a door I was frozen. A young Asian sitting in the seat in front of me very kindly offered me his sweater which I accepted gratefully. On arrival at the airstrip I returned it and told him he was very kind, he in turn said he was pleased that I had accepted it. He was travelling with a colleague who was a Philippine and they were taking a break whilst on a business trip to Nairobi. Waiting for us were four 4×4 vehicles each one taking four passengers, we reached the Lodge via a dirt road, on arrival we were greeted with mango juice and hot flannels, then allotted a tent similar to the one in Pangani.

The tent was very comfortable, twin beds washbasin and WC with a small terrace to the front with director chairs and a small table overlooking the Mara River. We could hear snorting and grunting on investigating we could see Hippos emerging and submerging from the river, we also heard cattle bells, the sound coming from a boma on the opposite bank. We then went to the bar and ordered a beer to drink then and water to have with lunch, we couldn’t believe the water was more expensive than the beer. We then sat down with the two gentlemen who had sat in front of us on the plane for lunch and an older man, also Asian, who had a business in Hong Kong in chemicals and plastics, we were sitting outside overlooking the swimming pool and it was all very jolly.

For our Game drive at 3.30pm, we were allocated a vehicle with two honeymoon couples. One couple lived in Luxembourg he was French and she Danish, the other couple English. Our first sighting of game was a herd of zebra and some jackals, next a cheetah with three month old cubs and later another with very small cubs. The mother was lying very still whilst we were watching her and the cubs playing, mum got a bit nervous and decided to move. Further on a lioness with two big cubs, then another lioness with very small cubs walking them out of danger from us. On the return trip were four giraffe they were a bit edgy, as we rounded a bend we discovered the reason, there was a lioness lying on the side of the track. Then we came across some birds a white bellied bustard, a secretary bird and a loan female ostrich. We found a herd of elephants with two calves of different ages and the bull was enormous. Then on the track was a cheetah with her three big cubs playing and climbing trees that had forks low to the ground. We have all seen the Masai Mara on TV but to see it live is amazing because the small screen cannot convey the sheer vastness of the area.

Our fellow passenger, the Frenchman, had a state of the art camera and he took many photographs and as it was nearly sunset, he wanted to capture the moment on camera when the sun dropped below the horizon, therefore we arrived back at the lodge a bit late.

We then showered and dressed for dinner and on arrival at the main building an educated Masai Warrior was giving a lecture on their way of life. I had noticed that he was also a driver/guide. We then joined our lunch acquaintances for a drink and dinner which was riot and very enjoyable. After that we never saw them again. From the craft shop we bought two dog collars for Rafiki our dog at home and the new puppy yet to be born. We then went to bed and found a hot water bottle, warming our beds and we slept very well.

We were up very early at 6.45am to arrange everything for our departure back to Nairobi. We went upstairs for breakfast and had a larger one than usual. We made our farewells to all the staff including Mr. Tom (Green). We were thanked for being lovely guests. One couldn’t be otherwise as the hotel was comfortable and all of the staff attentive and kind, always smiling and welcoming. There was a prearranged driver to pick us up and when we arrived at the airport at 8.15am we learned that our flight scheduled for 9.20am had left at 7.30am. We were given this information by a young Belgian honeymoon couple who had arrived ahead of us from Emerson and Green Hotel. The young man made a classic comment, he couldn’t recognise the person in charge as all Africans look alike!!! We were told to go upstairs to the restaurant until the situation was sorted out for a complimentary breakfast, which we declined and had a coffee.

The restaurant was a hygiene, health and safety nightmare. The whole place needed to be sanitised and given a coat of paint. At around 10.30am there was a flurry of checking in and paying airport tax, US$40 for two. By now two other parties had arrived to swell the passengers, one of young Japanese and the other of Spaniards. At midday we were loaded onto the plane bound for Dar es Salaam where we were to change planes for Nairobi. On arrival it was organised chaos, being sent from one place to another and no one seemed to know what to do with us. Finally Boarding Cards were issued at 1.15pm for the flight on a Boeing 737. Then we had our hand luggage searched and the customs officer said, “You have a torch or something in there”, we had two, one large and one small, John was asked to remove the batteries before we were able to leave. Finally we reached the tarmac and were asked to identify our luggage before boarding the flight. We were amused by the fact that on the flight the Japanese girls were all sporting tattoos they had done in Zanzibar and wondered what their parents would think. Perhaps they were variety that faded. On arriving at the airport we hired an Authorised Airport Taxi and arrived at the Emmett’s at 4.40pm. They were worried as we should have arrived there around 11o’clock. Elsie had emailed the hotel in Zanzibar to enquire as to our whereabouts and was advised that we had left the hotel.

Breakfast later today and there was no sign of the monkeys of yesterday evening or this morning. As arranged our driver arrived at 10.30am for a trip to the Amboni Caves. He was on time and had brought his son, Innocente, who had never seen the caves. First of all he took us to the fruit and vegetable market, John would like to have taken some photos but was advised not to. En route we came across road works and a newly constructed bridge. We were told the Japanese are financing the works. Along the dirt road we passed through African villages and glimpsed young men with the back of their bicycles piled high with grass which is dried for their cattle, firewood too, the women, with buckets of water balanced on their heads walking home through the long grass. We also saw children swimming and playing in the river near to the Amboni Caves.

The caves, 20 million years ago were under the sea which had carved varying sculpture. We progressed through the caves in stages. Huge footprints in the first room, a bison hoof print, a ship, and an aeroplane. A huge stalagmite glistened in the torch light as if covered in diamonds. One chamber was inhabited with bats and it was a little eerie to hear them twittering and flying around. Another chamber had some natural light and people picnic here on special occasions. Unfortunately there is also a lot of graffiti and it trivialises this wonder of nature.

Then it was time to visit the Sulphur springs. They were reached via a narrow track running through banana palms and thick vegetation. We could smell the sulphur before we actually arrived and parked. The springs consist of a narrow flow feeding into a pool with the colour of a vivid blue which looked inviting enough to swim in. The water erupted spasmodically and was very warm. After looking at the springs we retraced our steps and the guide climbed a coconut tree with foothold notches cut into it for easy climbing he then cut four coconuts, made a hole in one of the eyes, we all had one each and we drank the milk. The first time I had ever tasted coconut milk.

Then it was back to the Mkonge Hotel for of pizzas which would have been better if the base had been home made instead of bought bases. Not good. At 3.00pm our driver collected us as prearranged to take us to the Tanga airstrip to catch the plane a Tanzanair Cessna 12 seater back to Zanzibar. The airport Tax was US$10 for two. We had a stop at Pemba and we were advised to alight and as there was a 20 minute stopover. We arrived in Zanzibar 23 minutes later and this time the taxi was there on time to collect us, arranged by Coastal Travel. We arrived at Emerson and Green hotel, where we read for a while, showered and then went upstairs to the rooftop restaurant for dinner. I was sitting next to a lone American woman, she told me she was working in Baghdad with CAP in education for the interim government. We had an argument as to which town was the capital of Tanzania, Dadoma or Dar es Salaam. She was adamant that Dar was because the American consulate was there, however in this she was incorrect. Our entertainment was the lone Arab violinist again. This was too much for my American neighbour who decided she hadn’t enjoyed anything about the evening and went down to reception to ask for an escort back to the Serene Hotel.